TRIP 2009,  CAPE CORAL  -  TRINIDAD

Nov. 8, 2009

The preparations are full in swing. After a short trip to Key West on Halloween, the boat performed well, but still needs a few upgrades or changes to make the trip more comfortable. So we added a new digital TV set, in order to receive some local weather reports and stay in contact with the rest of the world.

Ursula is busy in checking the galley and prepares the extensive food list that needs careful planning. We also found a couple who will join us for the first part of the trip possibly all the way down to Puerto Rico. Rainer will start with us right away and his wife will join us later,  in the Bahamas. We have now another week and if weather conditions do cooperate, we plan to leave Cape Coral on Monday November 16. Many more little things to do until then.

Talk to you on the way, depending wherever we have access to the Internet.

November 17

We started our trip one day late due to some attachments to civil life before we could finally disconnect from the hectic hassle of every days chores. 14.00 the boat was ready and with calm southerly wind we left the marina down the Caloosahatchee River, passed the Sanibel Bridge and headed straight south towards Key West. Wind settled at NW of about 10kn for the rest of the day and most of the night until 05.00 the next morning. We had to use the engine for the balance of the 120 miles to Key West arriving mid afternoon. We did not go ashore and recovered from the previous sleepless night.

November 19

Departure 8.00. We passed a great cruise ship on the dock, being happy for not being one of the hundreds of tourists visiting Key West. Shortly after we turned East towards Marathon. With NNE wind of 10 – 15 kn, we had one of the best sailing conditions to drop our anchor outside the entrance to the marina, due to the fact that our mast would not clear the 65ft cable on the way to the marina. Overnight, we had a small medical problem with one crew member so we had to see a doctor on shore the next morning.

November 20

With the dinghy we went ashore and were advised that it would be the easiest to go to the emergency room at the hospital nearby. So we did and had a nice walk along HWY 1.

Back to the boat we then left the anchorage at 12.30 towards East with no real destination in mind, because there are no marinas for our boat where we could pull. But along the Florida Key’s one can drop the anchor just about anywhere inside the Hawk Channel. So we stayed nearby Long Key, but where a bit exposed to the easterly swell.

November 21

East wind against us, but we only had to go about 20 miles to the Rodriguez Island where we wanted to be on by stand for a weather window over the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas.

November 22 

The conditions seemed to be reasonable, although the various weather forecasts were contradictory. So we took the chance to believe in south easterly wind that would favor our course for Cat Cay in the Bahamas. In order to arrive in daylight as our destination we departed the Keys at 2.30 early in the morning. Crossed the reef in the dark and entered the 60nm passage over the Gulf. It was choppy as soon we reached the deep water, but it permitted to raise our foresail to accelerate our sailing speed. We did a great distance with 7-8 kn, although we could not keep our course to the destination. In spite of this we continued to sail and ended 2.8 nm north of Cat Cay. By 14.45 we made the passage between Gun Cay and Cat Cay and went straight for an anchorage outside the marina. A number of boats were also on anchor and as it was Sunday, the Immigration and Customs office was closed until Monday morning at 9.00. Had a quite night and a good sleep after the rough passage of the previous day.

November 24

Called the Cat Cay Marina for a space at the customs dock. To our surprise no other boat was there yet and in fact all boats left already for the Great Bahama Bank. As we were approaching the marina entrance, a small aircraft was approaching the airstrip. He only realized in the last minute that we had a 67ft mast and he could pull up his plane and make a new approach. For those not familiar, the airstrip is just next to the marina. So we cleared in with all the paperwork and the $ 100.00 processing fee and the $ 300.00 cruising permit (it is getting really expensive in the Bahamas).

We also filled up with diesel fuel and by noon we were ready to leave for the Great Bahama Bank. 

Cleared immigration and customs at Cat Cay. Conditions were not ideal but with light winds from the east that we left Cat Cay at noon. On to the Great Bahama Bank. Easy navigation as all is straight with 9 – 210 ft water depth. By 10.00 at night, we droped the anchor to have some rest. Not for long as 2.00 o’clock a squall moved in with 20+ kn winds. In addition, the anchor started to drag and we had to weather that storm for about 2 hours when conditions improved. Dropped the hook again and slept for the rest of the night.

November 25

Continued our course east passed the North West Channel Light to Chubb Cay. Anchored outside the resort for the day. However the wind was now due east and shifting to the south east that gave us little protection from the swells. It was a rolling night and not really comfortable.

Decided to move inside the marina in the morning as the forecast was for south winds and the brakers headed straight for us. In the new and wonderful but almost empty marina, there were 3 sailboats next to us. What a difference to have a good rest for a change. However this comes also with a price. $ 205.75 including water and electricity. But our freezer was again charged as he needed a cool down period.

November 26

Wind changed to south west with 10kn and we left for Nassau. Good ride for 40nm. Arrived at the Nassau marina, called Harbor Control and requested the permission to proceed to our destination at Nassau Yacht Haven. Passed 5 big Cruise Boats in the marina the 2 bridges and tied up the boat and celebrated. 

Celebrated Thanksgiving Dinner with the traditional Turkey and accessories. Good planning of Ursula to prepare all the food.

November 27, 2009

Now you know where we are.

November 28

We took a walk over the bridge to visit the Atlantis.  Starting in the marina with all the big multimillion power boats. Many little shops are trying to sell some goodies although they are more oriented towards the cruise ship tourists. The inside of the hotel is decorated with famous artists who left their signature sculptures like the glass blower Chihully. The big aquarium around the main restaurant is always an attraction with manta rays and large groups of various fish. Lavishly decorated walkways and of course the extravagant shops for watches and emeralds.

Connected to the internet and responded to my e-mail. Uploaded my website and tried to make some phone calls with skype. Unfortunately the called parties could not understand me while I had good reception from their side. Will try again later. Checked out at the marina and moved to an anchorage for an early start on Sunday.

First we thought we had a good deal on the anchorage, but realized that the anchor had no good holding. The current between Paradise Island and Nassau is very strong and changes a 180 degrees with the tide. It is like in a river with all the garbage floating around. It has grass bottom and my bruce anchor is not very suitable for this ground. We re-set the anchor twice that was just some extra work at night. In addition we had the Saturday night disco music from a nearby bar on shore until midnight. A routine that is normal for a larger city like Nassau. Not exactly our taste and it was so loud that our rig started with some resonance vibrations synchronous to their beat. Finally that punishment was over and only our anchor needed some attention.

November 29

So we were glad to leave this civilized metro area of the Bahamas and left Nassau in direction south east towards Allan’s Cay in the Exumas. First under motor for a few miles and then we raised our mainsail. As the sail was up, we did not realized that the halyard wound up on our electric winch, a critical situation that we could not lower the sail anymore. We had to cut a shackle to loosen up the line and demount the winch mechanically to get this jammed line off the winch without cutting it. Oh well, problem was solved, but we lost about 1 ½ hours on our journey. But once under full sails, we had a nice ride towards the yellow bank and to Allan’s Cay. Dropped the anchor at 16.30.

November 30

Nice day and time to lower our dinghy to get ashore. At the beach, may be 50 Iguanas greeted us, begging for food. This is the only island with so much wild live in the Exumas. Visited a small beach and enjoyed being alone on the beach. Did also some snorkeling on a nearby reef but it was not to exciting.

December 1,  1st Advent

Unlike in northern territories, it is hard to believe that in 24 days is Christmas. A beautiful day with a calm breeze and being on an anchorage where the anchor is holding. Our plan for the day to go to our next destination Normans Cay. This is an island with recent history in smuggling drugs to North America. It was in the late 70ies early 80ties when a man with the name of Carlos Lehder, with a German father and a Columbian mother had connections to the Medellin cartel. In the final stage, he supplied 85% of the total market cocaine to the USA. Norman Island has a small air strip where they flew the drugs in from Columbia and later on to Massachusetts. A very attractive business as Carlos bought most of the properties on the island and had some high life. It was for some time when the Bahamian Coast Guard with the help of the US Coast Guard moved in and took the group out. Today there are some left over’s from that time like half disintegrated houses with bullet holes, the air strip and the fuel dock. In the middle of the lagoon there is an airplane in the water that is half submerged. Apparently the pilot forgot to open the fuel tank as he was in a hurry to start and could only turn around and land the plane in the water. Today, small planes come in for lunch or a drink. The rotten and corroded fuel dock is still there as well a watering hole for visitors. The story was later on filmed and has the name “BLOW” with Johnny Depp and Penelope Cruz. Carlos still sits on a lifetime sentence somewhere in a prison.

 December 2

The wind is blowing 20kn from the east and we will remain on our anchorage on the west side of Norman Cay and also stay for tonight until the strong front will move away by the weekend. Will visit the island again and have a drink at the small bar. We have the DVD “BLOW” on board and watch the movie again on our TV to dig into history of this island. During the afternoon the wind shifted to the SSE and eased off 10-12kn. So we will stay another night here.

 December 3

It is time to move on and we leave the anchorage early in the morning during high tide. There is a critical passage with 6 ft at MLW as we came in and we rather have a bit more water under the keel, just for the peace of mind. Destination is the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. A 176 sq miles area of protected subtropical waters, coral reefs and fish-breeding grounds. Exuma Park also has internet connection and I hope to get my website updated and uploaded with new pictures. There is a whale skeleton that was washed on shore nearby and it is good snorkeling as they have some lemon sharks that live nearby as well “Bubba” a 4ft barracuda that calls this area home.

We snorkeled among manta rays and paid a visit to a very old lobster said to be 35 years old. He was there during my previous visits to this wonderful natural park.

December 4

Explored the island and I tried to update the webpage as I had an internet connection. However this connection was so slow and unpredictable that I did not succeed to get all the pictures uploaded. Had to bake fresh bread today as we were out of this commodity. The rest of the day was swimming, watch she lemon shark and do some minor repairs on the dinghy. 

 December 5

Due to the wind from the southeast we decided to wait for a day as the wind direction should clock around to the NNE on Sunday. If this is true and one never knows, we will actually sail to Staniel Cay instead going with the engine. So we stay put today and explore some more walking trails in the Exuma Park. This is the island where the “Hutia” is propagating to fast. It is a creature the size of the rabbit and hard to see during the daylight hours. One trail to the Boo Boo hill goes along a pond and can only be accessed by dry feet during low tide. We did not wanted to wait for 4 hours and had to go through water up to the pants as the water was rushing out to sea. Boo Boo hill is a small hill with a view over the Atlantic and the flat part of the Exumas. Many boaters have been up there and left a piece of carved driftwood with their boat name and date. Unfortunately we did not find some wood nor had we carving tools on the boat.

Today 4 boats have arrived that makes a total of 11 boats and we will have a beach party at 6.00 pm with a bonfire. O well it is Saturday and we worked hard all week long that we deserve a little brake.

 December 6

A balmy night and as the moon came out late, we had a fantastic view of all the stars. Just amazing how much more one can see without any lights from civilization. On short waves, we can also receive the news from the “Deutsche Welle” but why would we want to know all these political issues as seldom anything good is on the broadcast. So far I think we have not missed a thing and life goes on. Here is the actual fact about the weather. For all day we had no wind at all. The sea was placid like a mirror and we motored all the way to Staniel Cay to a mooring next to the Thunderball Grotto.

This is the place where parts of the James Bond movie “Thunderball” was taken. It is an island where one can snorkel in to the center where is a great hall with 4 holes on top where the sunlight shines in. The cave is full of fish and I had some bread with me feeding them. They snapped the bread right off my hand and a little frenzy took place. What a show. We also paid a visit to the Staniel Yacht Club where all the locals gathered as it was Sunday. A walk into the village and the fishing pier with sharks and manta rays in pristine clear water. We bought some local cinnamon raisin bread and some drinks.

 December 7

At night we had a front moving through with heavy wind and a few drops of rain. In the morning, we went ashore again and walked the island. Visited the dock where local fishermen were cutting up the fresh fish. Sharks were luring on the dock for some remains of the cut offs from the fish. Went to the “Blue Store” for groceries and fresh meat. Rainer our crew tried to make a phone call back home to Canada and it took him all day to get a connection. In the afternoon we relocated about 10 miles further south to “Black Point” a relatively young settlement. Nice and clean with a laundry where we occupied 3 machines. What a surprise. There is also a grocery store with a reasonable supply of fresh salad and drinks. In addition, the village has a fresh water supply free. So we plan to fill up some of our water tanks tomorrow.

The only fresh water source, a modern laundry and the waiting place at the dock.

Government Clinic, The School, and a girl coming from school

 December 8

Sailing conditions were reasonable and we sailed all day close to Little Farmers Cay. A small settlement of about 55 people living here in almost isolation. We had some nice chats in the only store that was open and really was waiting for the supply boat as there was not much on the shelves.

But the people were open and are always eager to talk about something. The night was not as smooth as suspected and the swell made its way into the anchorage.

 The smallest bar I have seen, the grocery store and if someone looks for a bed.

 December 9

We left this anchorage on a raising tide as we had some critical shallow areas to pass on the way to Cave Cay. The island has a hurricane hole and a brand new marina and resort, although all was closed as not all has been finished yet. The entrance had a 4ft at low water passage and therefore we could not get in unless at high tide. We decided to stay outside as we also planned to leave early tomorrow morning to get down to George Town in one day. This is only 32nm but the wind was coming straight from there. This means we either motor the whole distance or make a long leg before tacking towards our destination.

 December 10

As planned, we were on our way by 7 o’clock. Took the cut into the Atlantic in almost low water to avoid the current created by the tide. It was impressive how far out his current is stirring up the sea. Small waves we had to cross for about ½ nm. Passed this area, we raised our sails. However our bearing to the destination was 105 degrees. This was exactly where the wind came from. Instead of going by engine the distance, we sailed closed to the wind with 110 degrees over ground. This is a bit better than east. I calculated the tacking point 29 nm further out. The good part was the we had 15kn wind and we moved the boat 5-6kn. By 13 o’clock we tacked, however we did not go the full 26 miles offshore because we suspected that the wind may turn in our favor. As usual, this was not the case until late afternoon and we were about 10 nm off our target. And had to motor the rest of this distance to George Town. By 18 o’clock we were at our anchorage where we will stay for a number of days as we also expect our crew member  to fly in from Canada on December 15.

 December 17,

We are still in George Town with wonderful weather, but a cold front is in the forecast with 40 kn winds. Once it has passed, we will continue our trip to Caicos most probably on Monday Dec. 20.

Our new crewmembers active in the galley

Tallest Christmas tree in George Town

Our old anchorage area

 December 18,

Forecast not good for our area. Wind will clock around from S-SE to S and SW with winds up to 40kn. We decided to leave our anchorage as a number of boats moved close to us over the past few days. The plan is to go closer to the west shore to have less fetch for the waves. So we repositioned us closer to George Town and we also used our second anchor about 60 degrees towards the SE. Seas are now building up, but we are having room around us to weather this front.

This was a long period of a front moving away and we were still in George Town until we could see a window to proceed to the Southern Bahamas. There are a number of isolated islands where nobody is living. One island is Rum Cay that had some shelter and some structure to get the boat tied on.

 December 21

We left George Town early in the morning at 3.45 am. It was pitch dark and we relied on our GPS to get out of the harbor. A good distance of several miles to go without visibility until the deep water starts. By the time daylight broke there was a reasonable wind we could use the sails and make good speed towards Long Island and Rum Cay. We decided first to stay outside on a bay for the night if swells would allow. Not to bad, but forecast was for more weather to move in and we went through the coral reef with the aid from the harbormaster. The buoys are still missing and so every boat has to be guided in.

 December 22 to December 25

We spent Christmas in Rum Cay. Several other boats were in the same situation. The owner of the resort allowed us to cook in his kitchen and make use of his facility. A very nice gesture for all stranded boats that had to wait for better weather. So we had some nice parties and get together either in the Sand Bar or in the marina. We also met a couple that lives there permanently and the husband is a fanatic fisherman. One day he offered us to come along and get some fresh fish. We were lucky and got a large yellow fin tuna and 3 Dolphins ( Mahi Mahi) to keep the parties going. The weather situation just did not help us going further until …

 December 26

We left during the morning towards West Plana Cay. This is our first overnight passage to arrive on this little island the next day around noon.

Timing was good and we dropped the anchor for lunch and to proceed with the next passage to Providenciales on the Caicos bank. All went well and the crew could recover a bit from the overnight stress.

But here our biggest problem started when our engine would not start again to get us out of the anchorage. The wind unfortunately turned more to the north and we were exposed to heavy swells. We set out our second anchor out by dinghy to be safe. I called the Bahamian Coast Guard with no response. Nobody else was even close to help us. All the islands around us were uninhabited and had no marinas. It was good I had a satellite phone on the boat to alarm the US Coast Guard. They helped me to contact the Bahamian Coast Guard, but they were unable to meet us the same day as no boat was nearby and we had to spend the night on this anchorage. It was bouncy, but not life threatening. On my part, I tried to figure out why our engine was not starting. Took jumper cables from battery direct to the starter solenoid and motor, but all efforts did not work.

Here is an overview chart of the area. RUM Cay to West Plana Cay  115nm (213km) and West Plana Cay to Provo 84nm (155km) 

December 28

The Bahamian Coast Guard found us as we conveyed our coordinates earlier and helped us to retrieve the 2 anchors and get us under sail towards Turks & Caicos. Unfortunately one anchor with chain and line had to be cut as the power boat could not get close to a reef where the anchor was holding.

They towed us out into deep water about 2 miles and with north easterly wind; we had good sailing conditions towards our destination for the rest of the day and over night.

December 29

We arrive on the Caicos bank at 5.30 in the morning. For those who do not know this bank, it is a shallow flat area of about 40nm diameter with 6-8 feet deep water and numerous coral heads. It can not be approached without daylight. All was left for us to drop 2 anchors, wait until marinas opened up and could get us help to tow us into the marina. It was a long tow of several hours right across the bank. The financial damage was big as 700 gallons of gasoline were used plus chartering a power boat. But this was only the beginning of resolving our problem with the engine. However we were safe in a marina with some good infrastructure. The same day, a diesel mechanic came aboard to remove the starter motor and identify the problem. However it was the day before New Years Eve and all the businesses were practically closed. Also, it was doubtful that such a starter could be found in the Turks & Caicos.

So we ended the year 2009 on a bad note, not knowing when our boat will be repaired. But we looked forward to the New Year 2010 with big hopes that we can continue our cruise to the Caribbean. Here the pictures of the starter and solenoid.

 December 31

We celebrated the New Years Eve rather modest in a restaurant for dinner but could not find a place with music and some parties. As we had a rental car we searched the whole island without success and we returned to the boat and had the Champaign with our crew.

 January 1, 2010

Nothing to be done on the starter issue as the problem was clearly confirmed in the workshop. So we visited the famous beaches and did some provisioning. It was a nicer day with sunshine but big waves were pounding towards the beach so that swimming was not possible.

 January 2

No news about our problem as this was expected. I worked on some projects on the boat and the crew went by car to downtown.

 January 3

Another day at the beach where everybody had his own itinerary. We had a nice lunch in a nice resort.

 January 4

Early in the morning, one crew member announced his decision to leave the boat. Probably it was too much stress with our engine problem as I did not have the time to be concerned about other minor problems. As I had to cancel some other possible crew earlier, I went on the internet and contacted these people and by surprise, one was available that could come from Maine USA on Tuesday January 5, and I let him come.

After the marina workshop opened, we had a meeting with the diesel specialist and the harbor master. Locally they tried hard to find a replacement starter, or possibly rebuild, but without success. So we called the US and found the identical model in the Carolinas. We placed the order and it had to be shipped by FEDEX, the fastest way to arrive possibly on Tuesday. Finished buying another anchor, chain and accessories from a boat from South Africa.

January 5

First thing in the morning my other crew members were up early and walked unexpected off the boat. Well, so much for offering them a cruise for several weeks for just covering expenses. They have to find another boat going that cheap. However just walking off without notice reflects their incapability to handle a stress situation. 

My new crew member missed the early morning plane as he had no passport with him. Needed to re-schedule and finally was delayed another day because of a snow blizzard in New York. But he arrived on Friday. The starter motor arrived on Wednesday afternoon and was installed the next morning. The rest of the day we refueled diesel and water and were ready to leave the next morning. In fact timing worked out just fine as we would not had a window to leave before Saturday when a cold front brought north easterly winds for several days.

January 9

Departure 8.45 to go over the Caicos bank again towards Dominican Republic. We stayed on an anchorage near Cockburn town, at the edge of the bank.

January 10

Early morning departure towards Sand Island of the Turks islands. A good starting place for the long passage towards the Dominican Republic or Puerto Rico 350nm (650km) away. Conditions were good with a lot of northerly wind component. Due to this fact, we finally made the decision to head straight to Puerto Rico.

January 12

It was not the most pleasant passage as conditions were not easy. 25kn wind most of the time with huge mountains of water around us and nights with zero visibility. On the way we heard the Coast Guard warning all vessels of a possible Tsunami. First we could not understand what was going on, but only later we heard that a big earthquake stroke Haiti.

In the morning, this warning was cancelled and with steady 6-7 kn speed we were on latitude of San Juan San Juan, about 100nm off shore. As conditions became a bit smoother, we decided to continue to St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands, although we needed the help of our engine.

The winds calmed down and turned more easterly and against us. Our speed was reduced and the distance to St. Thomas to long to make it by daylight.

January 13

We could see the island over a long distance but could not change the fact that we had to find our way into an anchorage by dark. GPS was very helpful and I found an anchorage not to difficult to approach near Charlotte Amalie. Things worked out well and by 8.30pm we dropped our anchor near other boats. We only found out during the night that the bottom was rock and not good holding.  We had some suspicious rumbling at night and we were glad the next morning to leave and find a marina.  Cooked fresh Wahoo I caught on the way. We have about another 5 lbs and it will last for some time.

January 14

We are at the fuel dock for more diesel fuel. The marina was generous to let us stay at the dock for about 3 hours. During that time we had lunch, dropped our laundry in 2 machines, did grocery shopping and at 1.00 pm we officially cleared in at customs and immigration. All was done by early afternoon and we pulled away to drop the anchor near the town center.

January 15

We had a busy night as heavy squalls with 25-30 kn wind and rain moved in and our anchor was dragging. No direct danger, but we had to retrieve the anchor and drop it again. The weather deteriorated again and the forecast was not good. We decided to stay for another day in place instead of sailing to St. Croix. And glad we did. It became a wild day to hold on to the anchor. We tried at 2 other places, but it was no better and everybody was already close to each other with no space to squeeze in. The whole area is relatively deep with 30ft of water and it is not easy to find a place with a bit less depth of 20ft. So we are waiting now for better weather to get us further south. May be tomorrow Saturday or then at Sunday.

January 16

Tired of the bad weather, we decided to move south as the sky was promising. Not for long. As soon we were out of the marina, the problem was not only the rain, but the shift of the wind from all directions due to the continuous rolling squalls. So we were heading south for a while, but the next squall decided to go east. And that changed several times. In the south direction we went to Martinique and in the other direction to St. Martin. Every hour we had another destination but at the end, Martinique was winning. At night, the seas were building and the waves went over the boat and we had a very rough passage. The next day it looked a bit better and we crossed a number of squalls with gusts of over 35kn. The second night, no improvements. We were out in the nowhere but were closer to Guadeloupe and Martinique. So we decided to go for Basse Terre on Guadeloupe, as it was only 80 nm to go. These were some of the hardest miles I ever did, because the wind turned to south east 30 kn and we had a current against us. Using the motor and making inch by inch to the east in heavy seas. On Tuesday morning we still had 50 nm to Guadeloupe and it took us all day.

Pulled into a small, but nice marina for refueling and have some rest on our bodies.

January 19

Had to find the immigration office to register. Also my credit card was blocked because I was out of the country. Called Master Card to release the blockage. Then we needed some Euros and that was a problem. No bank nearby or a place to change our dollars.. Filled up 200 liters of diesel for our next segment for what we may need the engine. 1 EU for 1 liter of diesel. Fixed smaller problems on the engine and generator, washed the salt down from the boat deck as we had continuous spray going over the boat the past 3 days and nights. Preparing our continuation of the trip to Dominica and Martinique. Finally my credit card was cleared and I had to go back and pay the fuel bill from the day before.

January 20

We left Basse Terre towards Dominica. First time nice sailing conditions as we are used to. It was not our plan to spend much time on this island, although it would be nice to visit some places along the coast or hike up the mountains. As Martinique was our destination, we did not want to clear in Dominica with customs procedures. So we just pulled in close to the coast where a hotel resort was close by. It is a marked anchorage and was good until about midnight when the rollers came in and bounced us around. So we left to arrive early in Martinique. Good conditions until we came into the shadow of the island where we lost the wind. The rest was under engine and the anchor dropped in front of Fort de France. Went to clear in to France again on a computer set up in a marine store. Scott went to the Internet to check his options on how to get back home and he left.

January 21 to January 28

Started to solve a few problem areas on Spring Bird myself. Replaced alternator and bought some more chain for the anchor. Moved single handed over to Anse Mitan, but I was so disappointed about the anchorage I had in such a good memory. The Meridian Hotel has been demolished partially while the new ownership went bankrupt. In the marina was no more service or anybody who could provide some help if needed. Went back to Ft. de France, did some provisioning and serviced my generator water pump. On Sunday a local regatta was held on their own boats.

January 29

I was told in town that all the sailboat activity has been moved to Marin at the south east corner of the island. My remaining problem was the 2 batteries for the winches as they were discharged. Left early in the morning again alone and had a good sail down the west coast. As I approached the open water between St. Lucia and Martinique I had to face a 25kn wind straight on my bow and in addition high waves stalling my little speed to 1-2 kn. Impossible to reach Marin in those conditions. I returned to the west coast and anchored on Anse d’Arlet for the night. Nice little place with good snorkeling and a lot of French flavor. But even there, the wind was falling into the bay with heavy gusts, but at least the water was reasonable calm.

January 30

Wind conditions settled a bit over night and I gave it another try to round the diamond rock on the way to Marin. Conditions were more reasonable and slowly but surely I reached the large bay at Marin. Dropped the anchor where about hundred boats were stationed. Pulled up to the fuel dock and tried to figure out what services they provided. People were right, this was a large sailing community and one could find professional help. So I had a guy looking at my discharged batteries and also found the cause why they did not get any charges. The cause goes back to the Caicos where my starter motor was replaced. The mechanic forgot to re-connect a major ground cable to the engine block while installing the motor. So, additional damage was done caused by the failing engine starter. The electronic guy took the 2 batteries on shore and re-charged them for a day and a night. And finally I had a fully functional boat again.

On the way to Marin I passed Sainte Anne, a place I know from many years ago when I was at Club Med Les Buccaneer. Sainte Anne has now its own anchorage and a spectacular cemetery above the beach. (Background is Beach of Club Med)

January 31 to February 4

Finally I could start provisioning and cleaning the boat and prepare it for the new crew to arrive from Switzerland on February 4. I had to divert them to Marin instead of meeting them in Ft.de France. No big deal and they arrived on time by 9.30 pm that day.

February 5

We left Marin to sail to St. Lucia in favorable winds. Anchored near Pigeon Island in front of a “Sandals” resort complex. Cleared in at Rodney Bay customs and immigration and had dinner on shore.

February 6

Had a short sail down to Soufriere, a village between the 2 Pitons that are volcanic peaks. We hired a taxi to take us to the crater where there are still hot boiling mud ponds and sulphuric steam is released.

February 7

Early morning departure at 5.00. We had a long stretch to sail to Bequia, an island belonging to St. Vincent. A local boat took us to a mooring right in front of the famous Frangipani restaurant. Had dinner there and enjoyed the lovely atmosphere still existing, although there were now large ferry boats on a dock where we tied on some years back. A sign that also this island became touristic. Large sailboats also found this place.

February 8

Continued our sailing south to Salt Whistle Bay, an anchorage near the Tobago Cays. Had a bit a noisy night as the anchor chain was dragging over a rocky bottom. One can hear all the noise easily transmitted over the chain under load.

February 9

On a very short distance we motored over to the large horse shoe coral reef and took up a mooring. The rest of the day was snorkeling and relaxing. For dinner we ordered a large lobster and a tuna from the local fishermen. They prepared the lobster on the grill and cut 3 large fillets from the yellow fin tuna. Our setting was perfect to enjoy fresh raw tuna sashimi style and the lobster as our main course. A couple got married in the Tobago Cays. That means that other people also considered the Tobago Cays a special place.

February 10

Continued some snorkeling in the morning among the many turtles. We let the lines go on the mooring early afternoon to sail over to Union Island, where we had to clear out with customs and immigration at the airport. Had dinner at Lambi’s restaurant with a steel band and giving the place the real Caribbean flavor.

February 11

Left early in the dark, touched briefly ground at a reef area that could not be seen without day light. Continued towards Grenada’s capital. Had a good sail until we lost the wind in front of St. Georges. We entered the official new marina and we got a slip for a reasonable price. Clearing in, a procedure as usual at the local yacht club. This marina is large and has all the features one needs. Only a few boats were on the dock. Had dinner at the marina restaurant featuring a life steel band group and good food.

February 12

We had all day for sightseeing as our departure was planned for 5.00pm to cross over to Trinidad. So a taxi was hired to take us over the island. First it was the crater lake that is somehow small, but still visible from a distance. Then to Greenville, that is the second largest city on Grenada. Continued the ride along the hilly landscape to the Phare Bleu Marina. This is the marina built by a Swiss couple. The lady was a TV anchor on a Swiss network, before they started the adventure. It is a nice resort with some bungalows for sale or for rent. In the marina there is the large tugboat with a light (Th,e Phare Bleu) on the dock. They brought this boat along from Europe.

At 5.00 pm we left the St. George marina and headed out to the south point of Grenada. By the time we came into the open waters, we had a steady breeze of 20 to 25 kn from the east-southeast. Set all our sails and our course of 185 degrees and had a speed of  between 7-8 kn all night long. There are several entrances to the Gulf of Paria and we aimed to the one furthest to the east, to stay away from the Venezuelan border. However this entrance has no navigation lights and can only be approached by daylight. Due to the good speed we had, we almost came to early. However as we approached the coast we lost the wind and had to motor the last 5 miles and by the time we came to the passage, the daylight was there at 6.40 a.m. and we had no problem to find our way to Chaguarama’s many Marinas. Cleared in customs and immigration and got a nice place in the Crews Inn Marina.

                                                                  WE MADE IT IN TIME TO THE CARNIVAL

February 13.

Relaxed a few hours and got acquainted on what was going on in Trinidad. It was the Children’s Carnival. Went down town in the afternoon to walk along the parade.

 February 14

We got some tickets for the Panorama show at the Savannah stadium. This is the show for steel band fans. They have different categories depending on the size of the band. The largest band has over 100 musicians playing as many as 3 instruments. So it took some time to install the instruments they mounted on wheel carts before they could play the music. Unfortunately no cameras were allowed. A smaller band appeared in the parade.

February 15

This was the day for the “KINGS and QUEENS” where a jury selects the best costume. Obviously it was not possible to get tickets although some people were scalping tickets in front of the entrance with prices beyond we were ready to pay. Therefore we moved to the Westside of the stage where all participants came off the stage. It is a fenced off area where we had a glimpse of the performances in some distance. It took a while when someone found a hole in the fence and slowly we moved closer to the stage. Some of our crew managed to go as close to the actual stage where we could see the performances.

February 16

We had a bus ride into town early in the morning and he dropped us off near a place where a shady observation area was built, next to a judging tent that classified all the revelers on dance performance and creativity on their costumes. As the parade was already in full swing, we spent all day in this area watching the parade. Only pictures speak on itself on how colorful these groups appeared and on how excited they danced to the music amplified on a large truck loaded with powerful loudspeakers and a separate power generator. Unfortunately the music cannot be displayed in these pictures. But the air was vibrating and it was recommended to plug the years to prevent the loss of hearing.

February 17

The carnival is over, although the whole country was in rest to recover from the previous 3 days. For me, the work began to search for a marina and some contractors to take care of my minor problems on the boat. The crew hired a cab and visited some touristy spots of the country like the pitch lake and the swamps where the red ibis are nesting. Trinidad is tropical and has a lot of rainforest in the hills with many endemic birds and other creatures. The beaches are also home of the Leatherback turtles that come and lay their eggs in the sand starting in February. Leatherbacks do not have a hard shell as other turtles. Interesting to see when the young generation hatches and runs for their life to the water as predators like birds are waiting for the young hatchlings.

This is the place where my official trip log for Trinidad ends. However for those interested in boat maintenance, you may continue reading on as I just describe some of the work that needed to be done on “Spring Bird”. It is technical and probably not of interest to everybody.

February 18  4.00am

My Swiss Crew had to get up early to meet a taxi to take them to the airport for an early morning flight. They had to get back to St. Lucia and Martinique and from there to Switzerland by Air France. So here came my change in lifestyle as reality returned and I had to plan systematically on how to go for my boat maintenance.

At the same time I had to get the boat below deck organized, do 4 machines of laundry and also have some rest from the previous very active days. The Crews Inn Marina as a hotel with pool was very well situated, although it was not allowed to do any work in this marina. But there were several marinas nearby and I just had to figure out which one suits best for my kind of work I intended to do. So I had until Monday to decide and I choose the Coral Cove Marina best suited and move over there. An old friend we met 3 years earlier in the Exumas happened to be in Trinidad also and helped me to move Spring Bird. The marina also had a nice restaurant and a pool to cool off in between the tasks.

February 22

Immediately the work began in taking the windlass off into a workshop. And I had several carpenters looking at my teak deck and giving me advice, suggestions and quotations on how they would do the job. This was from totally stripping the present wood and replacing it, or refurbishing the existing wood and give the deck a good look and some more life out of it. I decided for the latter option as I am not going to keep the boat for ever.

Another project is the leaking diesel fuel tank. It is made out of stainless steel and the boat has been built around the tank as this tank would survive the boat for many years. Reality is that stainless steel is still rusting and as it appeared one welding seam started with a small leak. In other words, the tank could not be taken out of the forward cabin. The dimensions are much bigger and would not fit through the door or any other opening on the boat. This means, either the tank can be repaired inside or it has to be cut in smaller pieces and replaced it with plastic tanks. For this purpose we had to empty the tank and turn it around to get to the questionable welding seam.

The leaking seam has been patched with a compound specially designed for this purpose.

In the meantime the tank was put in place again and the diesel fuel was pumped back. It was hard to believe the next day that the tank is still leaking as before. So we must have missed the crucial place where the actual leak is. Had to take the berth into pieces again and empty the tank, in order to get to the lower part.

Here are some pictures on our forward cabin with the tank upside down.

Well the second time around, we patched the right place and finally this leak has been stopped. The teak deck took almost 2 weeks to complete, but the 2 carpenters did a good job. Only time will tell on how long this teak is going to last.

March 12 to March 31

Now there was a long brake on my reporting and it seemed to be yesterday since my last update, but many little details were taken care of in the past few weeks. There are still some projects pending, but I can handle this on a daily basis.

Today Ursula arrived and brought me the latest news from Florida. Actually thinking back, I did not miss anything so far, except the cold weather.

The plan to put the boat on the hard needed some preparations and the selection of the right marina was crucial as not all of them provided the same services. So I had to move the boat again on March 29. In the meantime we had some time for side trips in Trinidad and learn about the country. One trip went into the jungle to see the many varieties of birds. The highlight was to end the tour in the Caroni Swamps where at sunset the Scarlet Ibis (national bird of Trinidad) comes home to roost.

Another excursion was going to the famous Maracas Beach. A narrow street leads through the mountains to the north side of Trinidad.

And not to leave before tasting the Trinidadian dish “Shake and Shark” at Richards.

Our last trip was a boat trip on Gaspar Grande Island to visit some large caves.  This was a guided tour. After the caves we were dropped at the Macqueripe Beach to swim for about 2 hours and from there to hike back to our marina. About 100 Trinidadians signed up for this trip and we were only a few cruisers to mingle into the group.

Finally we had to say good buy to “Spring Bird” after we hoisted it out of the water and moved it into a parking/storage place until the hurricane season is over. At the same time we attached the “For Sale” sign on the stern. A sign I hate to see, however we have many good memories with us and who knows, we may sailing it again in the Caribbean until we find a buyer..

                                                  This brings us to the end of an exciting, but also very rewarding trip to Trinidad.

                                                                                             END

YUCATAN, MEXICO  2008

April 15 to May 31, 2008.

It took us several days the last few weeks to get the boat ready. The life raft had to be inspected again, that means we had to bring it to Tampa, where it will be opened and physically blown up and inspected with all the security material included like flares, medication, batteries, oars, the CO2 cylinder and the hydrostatic release device. This process has to be done every 2 years.

Then the 2 diesel engines had to be serviced, a messy job to change the oil and filter.

The diesel fuel tank replenished and so the water tanks. 6 new batteries replaced the common bank.

On the navigation part, new charts from Yucatan were ordered and the route was planned on the GPS.

Our Mexican adventure started April 15, 2008 in Cape Coral. We let the lines go by 9.00 am and headed to Isla Mujeres on a  straight line. With 25kn northwesterly and cold wind, that worked for some time until the waves became confused as the wind was variable veering 30 to 50 degrees. It became more down wind and we had to take in the main sail. With the Genoa sail we still could keep a speed of 8 + knots. The following day slowly the wind turned more to North and North East and started gradually loose on force. Not for long, but to our advantage became more easterly but stronger of 20kn gusting to 25kn. The second night we could see the lights of Havanna, Cuba, reflecting on the sky. Very little commercial boat traffic, so were alone under a partly cloudy sky. However the moon was with us all night and reflected its lights on the waves coming down on us, giving us a push or went straight under the boat leaving us sliding down on the other side. So we had roller coaster all the way.

Our heading was on purpose about 20 degrees towards south to compensate for the current in the Yucatan channel. Although to our surprise it only took place at a very late stage about 50 nm off our destination. But then very swift and strong we were carried north and we could use all our pre-calculated compensation until we saw the lights of Isla Mujeres the next night. At 6.30 am we approached the entrance light that was our waypoint, just on the day brake and we could find our way to our anchorage spot. On arrival we deserved our first breakfast in a normal sitting position around our salon table.

We took a little rest before preparing for customs, immigration and health department. Prepared our dinghy and motor to go ashore. Luckily we had a good connection with a Pia, a Swiss lady friend, married and living on the island and knowing all these officials in the various offices. That helped us lot and saved us time to fill in and process all the papers.

Later in the afternoon we finally went to the beach and we met with friends at the "Sunset Grill". No questions about the right drink and finally enjoy the rest of the day.

                                                                                                        Isla Mujeres Beach and Bar.

        Grouper in Banana Leaves                                                     Party Time                                                                   Original Carpenter Workshop                            

On Monday, our task was to clear in the boat. For this we had to take the Ferry to Cancun and process more papers at the Port Authority. I still needed 2 more copies of some documents and I had to go back to an Internet Cafe that had a copy machine. A ten minute walk in both directions on a busy bustling road with Mexican rule traffic. Tuesday was our first free day to do laundry, refuel with diesel and water at a gas station nearby. The gas station was in a narrow channel so I decided to approach it in reverse. Diesel was about half the price than in Cape Coral. Our city dock is selling the fuel at an all time high with $ 4.29 a gallon. In the evening our crew Michael and Verena came back from a land trip to Merida and Chichen Itza.

Wednesday, our crew was complete again and it was departure time day to head south to Cozumel. Weather perfect and we set sails and sailed all along the island Isla Mujeres. Good speed for about 4 hours and we calculated our arrival time about mid afternoon.  Not so fast --- all of a sudden we were hit by the current and doing only 1-2 kn over ground. For the remaining 12 miles, it would have taken us an additional 12 hours to our destination. So we had to change our heading towards the coast and take a long detour along the coast down to Playa del Carmen. Then cross over perpendicular to the current. We reached Cozumel just at sunset and it left us very little time to drop our anchor along the beach before it was pitch dark. The big reward were a group of dolphins following us for about an hour. Coming with high speed from behind and make jumps, go under the boat and show up on the other side. Swimming along the bow in waves of 3-4 feet, just amazing.

Thursday, knowing about the current we started early under engine down the coast of Cozumel, where 2 large cruise boats were waiting to come in to their docks. Down san Miguel we had to take the bite and cross over to our destination Puerto Aventuras. We made this passage  in good time and arrived at 12.30 at the entrance to the marina. We got advised to a nice dock spot along a wall, that is convenient for getting ashore. We registered at the harbor master and got orientated about all the facilities. It has just about everything here, including a dolphin school, feeding manatees and watch the clever sea lions giving their best performance. People can pet the dolphins, go out and 2 dolphins will pull them along. The highlight is to get 2 dolphins under your feet and they push one high out of the water. See some pictures below. On dolphin needed medical attention and they had to take it from the underside of his tail fin. One person kept him in this position and a nurse punctured the needle in the skin just as we do human blood tests looking for a vein. The dolphin was so patient although he had to turn around sometimes his forward body to get some air to breath. He was well awarded with his favorite food then swam away to his daily routine.

Marina Puerto Aventuras

                                                 Petting                                                                                                    Blood Test

   2 Dolphins pushing one man through water                                        Mannatee                                                                    Sealion

YUCATAN and the remaining places of the MAYA's

We took a 5 day trip across the Yucatan peninsula by car. This was a challenge on its own to learn about the driving habits of the Mexicans.

The Maya civilization was one of the world's most advanced. They developed a high form of astrology and mathematics, similar to the Egyptians. No one knows from where they originally came from, but some archeologists maintain the Maya had developed an advanced civilization even before the Olmecs. Not only had they developed the mathematical concept of zero, which allowed them to calculate extremely difficult formulas to predict equinoxes, eclipses of the moon and even more complex cycles of the stars and planets. Many of their cites are dating back to around 800 - 1000 A.D. By the time the first Europeans arrived on the peninsula in 1511, only a few late-classic Mayan cultures existed around Chichen Itza.

Our tour started in Puerto Aventuras with a drive on a highway to Cancun and continued to EK BALAM on about a 3 hours drive.. This place was opened just recently and has unique features with relief's and ornaments cut in stone.

The next stop was CHICHEN ITZA with the famous pyramids. This place is now named one of the new 7 wonders of the world.

About 20 miles further is the city of the hills, IZAMAL. That may be the oldest city in Yucatan.  Izamal was conquered by the Spaniards and it was the monks in their eagerness to convert the Indians to Catholicism that gave the city its religious distinction. The convent was built from and over one of  the Mayan pyramids.

MERIDA was our destination for the day. The city was founded by the Spaniard Francisco de Montejo on January 6, 1542. Before Merida was a large Mayan city known as T'ho. The Spaniards dismantled all the pyramids and used the huge stones as the foundation for the Cathedral of San Idelfonso 1561, the oldest Cathedral on the American continent. Across the plaza is the City Hall, where there were folkloric dances on the street on May 5th.

The next day we had a short trip to the northern city PROGRESO with a very long pier for the cruise boats. On the way back we stopped at DZIBILCHALTUN that has a wonderful  ancient cite with a CENOTE, a water hole where we had a swim.

From Merida, we took the main road in direction Uxmal with a number of interesting stops like Oxkutzcab for the market, Lo Tun the fantastic caves, Labna Xlapac, Sayil, Kabah and finally Uxmal for the ancient Maya cites.All historical cites are different and have their specialty in various building styles. In Uxmal, the night we arrived there was a Sound & Lights show with all the stories going around whether real or fictious. The roads are very narrow with pot holes sometimes. The place Tabi we never found and we drove miles in citrus farms apparently finances by Coca Cola.

Compared to the previous sites, we liked the smaller places as they had more carvings and decorations on their buildings. Chichen Itza is the largest pyramid large palaces and is the most visited place by tourists.

Another place south of Cancun is Tulum. Well visited and well situated on the Yucatan Straight. The Mayan's used it as a port and came to shore by an opening in the coral reef.

This concludes our land trip to Yucatan. Will report on our trip back home if there is any good reason to do so. It will be on water for 3-5 days, or 500 nm with always the same horizon and we hope for good winds from the right direction.

Our trip home.

On May 22, our new crew came in to Cancun and came by taxi to Puerto Aventuras to board "Spring Bird". The next day, for the first time the marina was closed because of a high ground wave at the entrance of the marina. Due to the continuous easterly wind of 15 kn plus for days, the brakers were building up that it was unsafe to leave the port. We looked for a rental car to go to Tulum and our neighbor  www.Catamaya.net  in the marina (local catamaran offering great snorkeling and sailing trips ) offered us to use their car. Again Tulum was very busy with tourists and it was a relieve to get to the endless sand beaches south of Tulum. On the way home, we visited a protected beach famous for their turtles where they bury their eggs. In addition there is a nice "cenote" where we cooled off a bit. This place was shown to me previously by a friend  we met back in the marina. His help was tremendous for any given questions we had, whether it was for shopping in Play del Carmen or fixing a flat tire on a car or connecting to the Internet. In the meantime we also learned of the tropical depression building up south west of Yucatan. So our departure window became narrower every day.

On May 25, finally the marina state became the status with a yellow flag what means a small craft advisory. We left at 8.45 a.m. and had to brake through the first 3 waves at the entrance of the marina. As water depth increases, the waves became a bit more bearable, although still have a height of 6 ft. As closer we came to Cozumel, as less was the wave action and we dropped the anchor in front of San Miguel, the main place of the island. We just stayed over night and left the place at 6.30 the next morning towards Isla Mujeres. The current for a change was in our favor and so was the wind. Often our speed was 8.5 kn over ground and  by 2.45 p.m. we were on anchor at our old place, close to the old town. We had our final shopping and have dinner with a friend that helped us to clear in through customs a month earlier. The Mexican Navy had a number of boats in their yard in preparation of the presidents visit on June 2nd. We filled up with diesel and water at he local fuel dock and prepared the boat for the long passage home.

It was May 28 when the weather charts predicted easterly winds, turning to SE the following days. By 8.30 in the morning, we pulled our anchor and left Isla Mujeres with a heading of 40 degrees over ground. For 36 hours we could keep that bearing, although as closer we came to Cuba, the wind was more from the NE direction and gradually increased to 20 kn. This meant tacking and braking through waves that even below made moving uncomfortable. We put a reef in the Genoa and we still made 7 - 8 kn. At 21.00 that night, we were  faced with the unexpected blow-out of the main sail. The noise was frightening and with a lot of efforts, the sail was pulled down and secured on deck. The stay sail also had to be furled. That left us with the Genoa and the engine to go against waves and wind as high as possible. If it would have been as predicted SE wind, that would have been fine. But it was still NE direction and our bearing would bring us to Tampa at best. But the counter current helped us this time  to keep our bearing around 41 degrees. May 30 a wind change forced us to a bearing of 25 degrees, certainly to consider a tack to the other leg of 125 degrees. In fact not so bad considering we only have the Genoa as a sail and the engine. Luckily this change was not for very long and by mid afternoon we finally got the long predicted SE wind of 20 plus kn. But we were back on course home and made landfall on Saturday May 31 at 15.15. We cleared in with customs at Ft. Myers airport by phone as we all had registered earlier with "Homeland Security". A program for local boaters when we clear in to US territory. Total transit time of 3 days and 6 3/4 hours for 405 nm straight line. However we recorded 495 nm over ground measured by our GPS. An average of 6.2 kn average that is respectable considering that we had no use of our main sail for about half of the passage.

Back home, the damage of our main sail was analyzed and interestingly talking to the boom furler manufacturer and sail maker, it turned out that the sail was not properly installed. The sail outhaul was not lashed down correctly on the mandrel. The damage to the sail is less than anticipated. The lowest batten pouch was damaged and a seam ripped open that can be repaired. It is a bigger pain to pack the sail and send it back to the manufacturer than repairing the boom. And more pain to learn that the sail maker was asking a horrendous amount for repairing the sail. We questioned the quotation and asked for a detailed quotation separating labor, material and services. Instead of supplying us with a quote, he returned us the sail. The positive part of it was that the repair down here in Florida was half the price than  what was offered us from Harding. The sad part of the whole story is, is that a company, that originally installed the sail inadequate, has tried to rip us off in a the repair job. So much for trying to be loyal to a sail maker.

This ends our trip to Yucatan. A trip worth while and has to be redone sometimes in the future. Timing was not ideal. Tropical depression Arthur was not as severe as anticipated, and also did not bring the predicted easterly and south easterly wind.  The old saying is true. 50% are pleasant passages and 50 % are not that pleasant.

November 30^th 2006 to January …. 2007

The crew flew into Cape Coral Nov. 29. We had all dinner at a friends house in Fort Myers. We all slept on the boat and were ready to go the next day. The first thing in the morning, we did was getting the boat ready below and above. This took minimum time as all the provisioning was already on board.

At 9.45 we pulled out of Cape Coral Yacht Club Marina and headed down the river toward Sanibel bridge. The new fixed bridge is under construction and clearance was reduced to 68 ft, 2 ft lower than the final clearance of 70 ft.

Spring Bird has a mast of 64 ft plus 3 ft of antenna that makes the passage uneasy and we also had to watch the tide. The tide was going out and was about 1.5ft. At the 11.00 o’clock opening of the old bridge, we passed both of them. One concern less on our mind. There was some wind SE of 10kn and our heading South was mainly by help of our motor with an average speed of 5.8kn. At 8.00 o’clock the wind changed to East and we were glad to make use of our sails. A steady 10kn through the night brought us down to Key West at daybreak to go safe into the Northwest Channel.

Our heading changed to east and the wind changes to Southeast. However a few degrees were missing to make this a sailing day. We took the Hawk Channel along the Florida Keys all day until Marathon. Thee we crossed the reef out into the deep water in order to make use of the Gulf Stream that would carry us over to the Bahamian Islands of Bimini and Cat Cay.

A passage not to easy as the elements did not fully cooperate. We made slowly progress during the night to be at the entrance between Gun Cay and North Cat Cay. We arrived there before noon on Saturday. Cleared in with Immigration and Customs procedures that requires a number of documents. The cruising fee of $ 300.00 was collected, we refueled and filled our water tanks.

We left early onto the Great Bahamas Bank to make as much distance as possible. The wind still out of the East was not cooperating that left us with motoring the whole day.

At 25degrees 25.5 minutes latitude and 78 degrees 26.9 minutes longitude we dropped the anchor to spend the night in the middle of nowhere. It was a relatively calm night.

Monday morning, we had a positive surprise as the wind shifted to the Northeast and that gave us a good sail of 7 kn for the full day. We passed the Northwest Channel Light marker at 11.00 o’clock and shortly after we were in very deep water. We passed Chubb Cay and continued to Bird Cay for an overnight anchorage. It was rather open except to the East where the island gave us some protection from the wind.

There were about 38 nm left to Nassau and finally the wind was from the East to get us between 7 and 8 kn of speed to be in Nassau early afternoon. We Requested the passage of the Nassau Harbor from the Port Authority and went straight to the Atlantis Marina. We had a tour of the facility and were surprised on all the extensions they added or are under construction since we were there 5 years ago. However the marina was almost empty and the big yachts have not arrived yet. They will fill the marina before Christmas until long into the New Year. The weather did change and e had strong gusts going through the marina and the forecast was not very good. Also the 2 bridges in Nassau Harbor were only 21 meter high and we had to make sure that we can pass as the tide is over 4 ft.

So we left at 11.00 and headed towards Allans Cay in the Exumas. Due to our late departure, we knew we would not make this destination by daylight. But in the Lee side of the island it is pretty shallow and one can anchor almost everywhere. We passed another boat and then dropped the anchor for the night

Moved the boat inside Allan’s Cay to watch the Iguanas, the only inhabitants of the island. We took our dinghy and went ashore and as we approached the beach, about 50 Iguanas were running towards us. A sign of civilization. Shortly after, a big roaring powerboat pulled up at the beach with about 50 guests from Nassau. They were provided with fresh grapes to feed the Iguanas.

After all the tourists left, we also lifted the anchor and headed towards Highborne Cay that has a very nice marina. We filled up fuel and water and did some shopping at a new little store. We continued to the next island just a few miles further south. This is Norman Island that made history with the big drug deals of Carlos Leder with a connection to the Medellin Kartell. They brought the drugs from Columbia and delivered them to the US by small airplanes. One plane landed in the bay and is half submerged in the water. Today is very little left over from that wreck.

The anchorage is a small passage between the Sound and the shallow waters West of the islands. We were 3 boats that night in the place. The Bahamian Coast Guard pulled in with a navy boat and the captain walked us over the island to the few houses left. Unfortunately all is falling into pieces and nobody seems to have any interest for investing.

Back on the boat, the wind started picking up and we were not sure whether this was now the cold front people were talking about. In fact over night the wind started building and gave us a reason to leave early and head for our next destination that is EXUMA Park.

Friday

This is a protected area by land and sea and fishing is prohibited. We had a wonderful sail over the bank with a little detour around the shallow sand banks. We had a mooring reserved and only figured out over night that this was a good idea as this cold front finally arrived with 20 + kn wind from the NE.

Also the seas were building and a dinghy ride to the park headquarter was a wet ride. Over night, the wind was gusting 25 – 30 kn .

We were stuck at the Exuma Park for several days because of heavy wind. But we were at a mooring from the park and it was good holding. We had some walks on the island that is kept pristine. Nice views into the Atlantic where the waves were pounding against the shoreline.

Finally we decided to leave in spite of some strong gusts. We took the route on the west side if the islands as they gave us some protection, although one has to take big detours because of many shallow sandbanks. I put all the waypoints into the system and we made it to Staniel Cay. This is the place where the James Bond film "THUNDERBALL"was taken some years ago. There is still the grotto one can snorkel in. However the weather was not so inviting to go into the water and we left this excursion pass by.

Slowly the weather improved and sailed another 30 miles south to an anchorage behind an island, ready to go out into the Sound (Atlantic) the next day. It was still blowing 20 kns but we tried it and took the 40 pounding waves for all day. Pulled into the harbour of Georgetown just before dark and anchored out at the monument bay.

Moved a bit closer to the island opposite of Georgetown, dropped anchor, called a water taxi that took us to town did laundry and had lunch at the hotel Peace and Plenty. Later the crew dropped me off at the boat while they stayed at the hotel because of an early morning flight the next day. Did some limited shopping and running up and down the town to find an internet connection.

Thursday

Moved a bit closer to the island opposite of Georgetown and dropped the anchor. The crew called a water taxi that took us to town. Unfortunately they did not put the fenders out and Spring Bird has now marks for ever. Not all ideas are good if they are executed poorly. We did laundry and had lunch at the hotel Peace and Plenty. Did some limited shopping and running up and down the town to find an internet connection. Later the crew dropped me off at the boat while they stayed at the hotel because of an early morning flight the next day.

Friday Dec. 15 and on live alone until Dec. 23.

Not exactly alone as there are about 30 boats at various anchorage bays. I am at the volleyball beach where a restaurant and a bar is located. There are daily games organized from volleyball, domino, bridge and whatever one wants to play with. I just have a short dinghy ride to the swimming beach.

But there was work to be done and the main thing is to adjust to the Bahamian pace of life. As of last Wednesday, I had a problem with my generator as the water pump broke off. A new pump was ordered from Entec in Portland OR and was shipped the same day by Fedex to Georgetown. Obviously this pump had the highest priority because I need 110V for my freezer and refrigerator. Everyday I called in at the hotel Peace and Plenty to see whether this priority shipment has arrived. Saturday of course is not a working day and forget about Sunday.

Monday morning I took my dinghy trip over to Georgetown to see where my little parcel is. I called at the reception first and nothing was known about my parcel. But there are always people around you and they try to help to solve a problem. Apparently there is a broker in town that clears all the parcel post with the name Forbes Enterprises. Walking through town again I found the place. However as of that day, they do no longer clear parcels for Fedex. Walking back to the hotel. Someone else mentioned that an agent at the Four Seasons hotel is now handling the Fedex business. After a while we found a phone number of this place. But the answering party was not Fedex, but gave us a new number. Finally I got the Fedex agent on the phone and after giving him my name and address, he said that the parcel just arrived this morning and he would deliver it shortly. Having learned a bit about the pace here, I questioned what means shortly. He said that the driver just left the Four Seasons and would be in Georgetown by noon. This gave me some time to have a haircut and do some grocery shopping and walk back through town again to be at Peace and Plenty after 12.By half past twelve I was almost sure that I would now get the parcel. Not so. So I had a reason to go to the bar and have a drink. Waited again 15 minutes and then the Fedex agent turned up with my parcel. This is so called overnight service in the Bahamas. From Wednesday to Monday afternoon!!

But I was happy to have this pump and I could go back to the boat and replace the broken pump. Time did not play an important factor anymore as most of the fresh food went over board long before. Just never be under time pressure here or one may go crazy. Keep smiling and be friendly and this is fortunately a very local tradition. It may take some time until one can find something, but everybody on the street is supporting someone’s problem.

Now to the Internet.

7 years ago, there was 1 landline in the marina and if one wanted to make a call, there was always a line of about 10 people in front of you. Today many people have cell phones, but have to run outside or turn in another direction in order to receive the call and

not being cut out. Many placed offer internet access, but one is lucky to go through a few e-mails before either the system crashes or the line is interrupted. By all means a lot of progress has been made, but again one has to be patient to find an operating computer or one that connects to the internet. Yesterday I sat 2 hours in a hotel while a guy tried to get the system working. Had lunch in the meantime and by 2 o’clock I gave up and went to the boat. If they cannot find the problem, they blame the satellite or something else. For me it gave me an opportunity to write a bit about life in Georgetown. Preparations for Christmas are in full swing as many places plan a party. We will see how this works out. We have daily a heavy breeze of 25 plus knots in the anchorage and for the past few days, no further boats arrived as the swells in the Atlantic are too high. Somehow unusual, but it should become better in 4 days. We hear that many boats are on their way in the upper Exumas and seeking shelter on the leeside of an island. Once the weather turns around, many more boats will be here in our anchorages.

Celebrities arrive

A large power boat of 150 ft length pulled up next to us in a good distance. It anchored but was moving and swaying quite a bit. Its name is “PRIVACY”. First we did not see much action on that boat as it was still flying the “Q” flag and needed to clear in to the Bahamas. Later on little information was floating around that they came from Puerto Rico. At night it was beautiful decorated with strong lights illuminating the turquoise water. After another day, the rumor went around that this boat belongs to Tiger Wood. This was confirmed after another day, but we are not sure whether he himself was on the boat also. Here is a nice picture of Tiger's boat.

 Christmas on the boat

Ursula arrived last night late and I was waiting for her at the hotel Peace and Plenty. By the time we were ready to go to Spring Bird it was after 9.00 p.m. Instead of using the dinghy at night, I ordered a water taxi over to shore and this taxi took us also back to the beach where our dinghy was waiting. It was better than take the dinghy at night for this long distance of 1 nm, or just about under 2 km. The waves were still rather high and we would have been very wet by doing this trip with our dinghy.

In the morning we took a dinghy ride to a small beach on Stocking Island. Walked over the hill to the windward side where a steady breeze of about 20 kn stirred up nice waves crashing to the sandy beach of about 7 nm long. We were alone and walked a part of the beach, took some pictures of the clear waters of all colors.

On the way home we picked up some wood for a bon fire to be held on Christmas Eve. Stopped at “Chat and Chill” our little bar and restaurant on the beach. Had lunch on the boat and then back to the beach for some swimming and meeting some people.

                                          Chat and Chill, our watering hole

Back on the boat we prepared our Christmas Dinner. Tenderloin Beef, cucumber salad, iceberg salad, fried plantation and home made cookies, Ursula brought from home.

The traditional gift exchange among us took place, in rather small boxes. The Christmas light decoration on the mast and a small Christmas tree on the bow I took along, were our efforts, as all the boats had something planned different.

At 7.30 the bon fire started on the beach and people from all the boats were gathering around the fire. A group of ladies founded a small choir and started to sing Christmas songs accompanied with a guitar player. Then the story of Christmas was read from the bible, some portions by various people. Some more Christmas songs and then a selection of cookies were offered from all the various boats. By 10.00 o’clock the tide came in and all the dinghies were floating and people were heading back to their boats.

So we had Christmas celebrated pretty much the same way as home and nothing was missing. It was just a bit different on the beach in summer dresses and sandals.

                                    Our tallest Christmas Tree to the top of the mast

Christmas Day December 25.

Today all the boat pepole are gathering at a nearby little resort. They allowed us to make a Turkey in their kitchen and everybody will bring a dish to share. Our choice was Cranberry Sauce and Appetizers. As we have a lot of cheese and crackers on board, this should be an easy task. I found Cranberries in the grocery store in Georgetown last week.

One problem is parking the dinghies. We have now about 90 boats in our area and the dock of the resort is not very long. So some boats are offering a taxi service to resolve that issue.

So as one can see, Christmas is celebrated also here and instead being with our own families, we are among strangers from all over USA and Canada that also forms a family away from home. Some people will stay foe some time while others will depart in continuation of their cruise down the Caribbean Islands, Panama Canal and around the globe.

For all our friends who did not receive a Christmas card from us, here is the reason why the mail was not delivered. There was no mailbox on the island.

                                                      Bonfire at the beach

                                    The festive Christmas Meal

Boxing Day December 26

As a British tradition, December 26 is Boxing Day. In the Bahamas this means “Junkanoo” parade. Similar to a carnival, 3.00 o’clock in the morning the parade starts in the middle of Georgetown. This is a major event and gives the locals an opportunity to go wild. Some floats are sponsored from local businesses. The parade is in full colors with the various costumes, a wonderful event typical for the Bahamas.

                                              Boxing Day St. George

After all the shops were closed for 2 days, we were in need of water as all of our 3 water tanks were empty. We have to go to the marina for this, where also diesel fuel is available. However the approach is rather shallow and with 6 ft draft, we have to go during high tide. The tide gives us an extra 3 feet of water. At the same time we will have to replenish our provisioning and about 10 gallons of drinking water. Otherwise we have to haul all this with our dinghy, and that is hard work

December 27

We were on the last drop of water last night, just enough to brush the teeth. We therefore needed to go to the Georgetown harbor to fill up with 120 Gallons of water and 39.1 Gallons of diesel fuel. It was a cloudy day with wind from the north of 20 kn. Not the easiest way to get to the dock, but at the same time we also bought more food and 10 Gallons of drinking water. Back to the anchorage on Stocking Island.

December 31

We are still on anchor at Stocking Island as the weather is consistent with 25kn winds and swells of over 6 ft. However the forecast is for smoother weather as of Tuesday Jan 2. We plan to sail to the island “Conception” about 40 nautical miles to the northeast of us. Besides of the strong wind, the weather is just fine around 28 C every day. We walk on the beaches and Ursula has her swimming exercise. Baking bread and making fresh Pizza is part of my kitchen duties. Then we spend some time on the beach where everybody spends the afternoon in playing games like volleyball, cards, domino, chess or whatever people like to play. Then comes the “Sundowner” drink with appetizers until sunset. Then back to the boat for dinner followed by a DVD movie and a relaxing evening in the cockpit.

Tonight the schedule is a bit different and we will drink some Champaign to all of you.

HAPPY NEW YEAR

January 1^st, 2007

 Local activity. Went walking the beach with John and Ruth (a couple that is on the way around South America). Tried to find a reef for snorkeling, but the waves were too high. Visited a botanical trail for all the local plants growing on these islands. It is a wild brush and most plants are not over 6 ft tall. Later in the afternoon we prepared the boat for the next day. Took the dinghy motor aboard as well the dinghy and tied it to the deck.

             Wherever you want to go in the New Year

January 2^nd, 2007

We left early in the morning for Conception Island. 40 nm away. Had good wind from the SE but we had to go hard on the wind to make our destination in one leg. Made good 7-6 kn for about an hour and then the wind slowed down and we had to motor for 1 hour. This gave us an opportunity to charge the batteries and cool down the freezer with the compressor. The wind came back and we continued towards the Conception Island. By mid afternoon the wind direction changed against us and we used the engine for the last 6 nm. Conception Island is not inhabited and it is a pristine natural reserve protected by law that one cannot fish or pick up any lobster. We anchor in the bay between coral heads.

January 3^rd, 2007

A bright sunny morning as we launch the dinghy to explore the island. Beautiful beaches and a lot of coral reefs of several miles long are on the north side of the island. After a walk to the east side beaches, we return to the dinghy and snorkel in our bay. Some very nice coral heads with big and small fish came in schools towards us considering us as intruders. Parrot fish and dark blue angel fish are around us. Good brain coral and a large area of fan corals are very unique.

                                                 Conception Island

January 4^th 2007

The weather report is not so good with winds of over 20 kn wind, but we have to return to Georgetown as our friends are coming in from Florida the day after. It will be a rough sail with 6 + ft waves in a broad reach. One more picture from this unique island.

                                Conception Island "SPRING BIRD" at Anchorage

Then came January 6

Ursula departed by plane back home and for me and my new crew, the return trip started also. However we had to wait until Monday January 8 when the conditions in the Sound were reasonable. The problem was to get from the Sound (Atlantic side) to the Bahamas bank. Because of the tide, there was a standing wave of 4 feet between 2 islands and we had to pass this cut. Spring Bird is well capable to manage such situations although it slowed us down from 7kn to about 2 kn of speed. It took about 20 minutes to make the pass until we were in calmer water. We looked for an anchorage behind the island and drop the hook for the night. Once ine is on the bnak on the leeward side of the islands, we could continue our trip through waters with a chop of 2-3 feet, but without ocean surge. Sailing around sand bores is also interesting although it did not allow any navigation errors. The route was much the same as on the way dawn. Stopped at Exuma Park again. Tried to take up a mooring, but missed it several times until a neighboring boat came with a dinghy for help. It was blowing heavily and as the mooring was a distance from shore, there was a chop on the water and one has a limitation to stay in the wind for some time to pick up the mooring line.

Staniel Cay and Highbourne islands were the next destinations where many boats were on anchor because of the strong winds. They were all heading south to Georgetown, but waited until conditions improved. We did not have the luxury to wait as we had to be home sometimes soon. Back to Nassau, the Great Bahamas Bank, crossing the Florida Straights and onwards along the Florida Keys. Cleared in customs and immigration in Key West. This was a special procedure. First I called the immigration department by cell phone and gave a guy all the information like passport details, boat documents, departure marina, etc. Unfortunately this man was not able to handle the computer and he erased all the data 4 times. It took 1 hour until I got an arrival number and instructions to contact the Key West office. Unfortunately this department requested to come ashore and bring all the papers with us. So we had to do the same thing again in our handwriting that took another hour. In addition, they charged us $ 25.00 for a decal fee. An additional problem was that we had to reinstall our dinghy and motor to go ashore. The whole process costs us 3 hours nonsense, a typical slow government transaction in shuffling paperwork.

Key West is still the same as ever. It is full of tourists from the big cruise ships.

 January 20, Saturday.

We left Key West in the morning on our last long leg home to Cape Coral. This is an overnight trip as there is no island in between to stop. A 120 nm stretch. Over night the wind blew straight out of the north, but turned to the NE in the morning. A wind direction Spring Bird can sail. However we had to bounce at every wave, still coming straight from north. So we had a rough ride until early afternoon when we all of sudden had no more wind. I caught a King Mackerel 3 ½  feet long and I had to cut it up as it did not fit into our freezer. We used the motor for about 6 hours until the wind came back from the east. This was a preferred direction and we started speeding towards home. Until a large wave drenched us in the cockpit and we were all wet as this was unexpected to all of us. I kept going towards Marco Island to avoid more of such waves, although a few managed to do the same. At that time we learned to wear our foul weather gear. We finally saw the lights off the coast and arrived at the San Carlos Bay Marker at 4 o’clock in the morning. To early as the Sanibel bridge opens only at 7 o’clock. We dropped the anchor the last time in San Carlos Bay. Had a few hours sleep and John prepared pan cakes for breakfast. Motored home up the river at a very low tide (nipp tide) and arrived in the marina after 10 o’clock.

Ursula and the harbor master Jim were waiting for us to take the lines and tie Spring Bird to the dock.

It was an eventful trip with number of surprises, minor problems with boat gear, but it is time to plan the next trip.

For those interested, be prepared in January/ February 2008 for a trip to the Exumas and beyond or across the Gulf of Mexico to Cancun.

                                          Natural path with unique plants

End of the EXUMAS.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Our trip  from CAPE COD  to FLORIDA 2005.

Cape Cod to Cape Coral Trip Log   (Pictures at the end)

The unexpected adventure and highlights of a lifetime trip

May 26 to July 15, 2005

26. Departure finally took place in Cataumet, due to very unfavorable weather conditions the previous days. Coldest day since Cape Cod takes records.

    Visibility limited. Arrived in Newport after 5.00 p.m. Our reservation was cancelled and all of the other marinas answered by voice mail. Skip found a mooring, a guy directed us from home to find the mooring in a large marina. Tied up and went grocery shopping by taxi as nothing was on the waterfront. Needed a launch service that closed by 8.00 p.m.

27. Cloudy, but improved conditions. Sailed and motored to Clinton Connecticut. Nice little marina.

28. Left by sunny weather but no wind. At 13.30, a metallic sound in the engine room was brought to our attention. Engine heats up and we stopped it. We lost a V-belt. Replaced it but realized that there was another belt off the track. Position 10 NM off Stamford in the middle of Long Island Sound. Called Boat US tow service and we were towed into Stamford where we had a slip reserved. It was Friday before Memorial Day and no mechanic is available before Tuesday June 1. Old crew left early and new crew had to the rental car from New York to Stamford.

2. Departure in Stamford with new crew after all 4 belts were replaced. 1 belt unfortunately still touched a lower pulley and was wearing off. Took that belt off 1 day later as we did not wanted to go through the same procedure. This belt was installed off axis from the previous owner for additional cooling of the refrigerator. The compressor is in a wrong position and needs to be installed correctly later on. As we had a generator for 110V on board, we did not really need that belt. However going into the ICW later on, it would have been helpful to use the main engine for cooling than the generator. This problem will have to be addressed later on when the boat is in Cape Coral.

   Heading towards City Island of New York to stay overnight for the correct timing of the East River and its current. Could not get to the reserved dock and we ran aground. Were stuck in mud for a few hours until tied came back. Anchor did not hold either and we tied up at a mooring at one of the neighboring Yacht Clubs.

3. Left early at 6.45 to meet reasonable conditions at HELL GATE in the East River. Passed Manhattan to the Battery on a busy bustling New York day. Traffic on the roads and water.. Crossed over Hudson River to New Jersey side and tied up at the Liberty Landing Marina.
4. Left Marina, passing by Ellis Island and Statue of Liberty down the Hudson River. Changed bearing after the Verazano Bridge towards Sandy Hook. Met with many fishing boats on the way. Stayed on anchor at Sandy Hook Bay.
5. Continued along N.J coast to Long Beach. Entered the famous Barnagat Inlet under strange conditions because of swell and current in the passage. Caught a 7 lb bluefish, enough for a party of 6 people. Met with friends of John and Hillary for dinner. Stayed another day for grocery shopping as we had a car from John's and Hillary's friends. Wonderful on shore service.

             6.-7. Atlantic City was our next destination. Sponsored D. Trump in the most expensive marina so far. $ 141.00 a night.

8. Atlantic City.

9. Ursula is leaving us as a crewmember. We depart in thick fog. Could not see 50 yards to the next marker at the inlet. Continued strictly under Radar and GPS and did not see anything all day until Cape May.

    

10. Clear conditions but 20KN wind from the SE. Raised the sails and tacked all day towards Ocean City. Mid afternoon we were half way there but realized that we could not make our destination by daylight. Decided to return to Cape May down wind and anchored for another night.

11. With continued strong winds from the SE we changed our itinerary and went up the Delaware Bay. Entered the C&D canal to stay at a little marina about 10NM into the canal.

12. Continued in the canal until it opened to the Chesapeake Bay. Followed some routes on the chart but hit a sandbank near marker "G15". Sandy Point was our anchor spot for that night. The bay is full of crab traps and we dropped the anchor in between 2 lines.

13. Motored mainly against SE wind all day. Anchored at Salomon Island Marina for the night.

14. Finally sailing conditions were in our favor. Anchored off Gwynn Island.

15. Arrived at Little Creek Marina in Norfolk, just opposite a large Navy Base. Cleaned up the boat and organized a rental car to return home for 1 week and organize a new crew.

22. Arrived the day before departure to commission the boat again. Had to replace another belt, as we had to go under motor for the next few days in the ICW.

23. Departure in Norfolk and entering the ICW. We pass a fleet of of navy Ships and an aircraft Carrier just pulled out to sea behind us. Great Bridge Lock and Great Bridge Bridge were our next 2 challenges. Slow lock and slow bridge service. We decided to tie up on a dock just before the bridge. Stayed over night.

24. Passed Albemarle - Chesapeake canal. Crossed most crucial bridge listed at 60 ft clearance but we had 65 ft at low tide. Both VHF antennas did touch the bridge at Pungo Ferry. We do now know our mast height is 64 ft and some inches. Anchored at Sandy Point for the night.

25. Still on anchor. We tried to heel the boat by loading the dinghy and 2 crew to the spinnaker boom. Not enough to clear a 64ft bridge that day. We took a chance and hoped for low tied at the Fairfield - Wilkinson bridge. Both antennas touched again but without damage to my wind instruments, installed only 3 inches below.

26. Continued the ICW over Pamlico River to Adams Creek. Visibility down to nothing and we had to drop the anchor for about 45 minutes at marker "G17" until we could see the next marker, entering a very narrow channel. Reached Beaufort N.C. later that afternoon. City Creek Marina gave us a berth on the phone, but after 5.00pm nobody was available to pull into that narrow space. Tied up at a mooring next to the marina.

27. Grocery shopping. Walking 2 miles to the next store. Took a cab back to the marina as it was hot and we had to many goods to carry. We depart at 2.00 p.m. into the open Atlantic. We had enough of ICW motoring and we sailed off shore for about 30NM. Were surrounded by several Thunderstorms. Sighted a waterspout. The Navy had an aircraft carrier off shore and planes took off all the time. They tested nightvision equipment all night long around us. Continued over night and arrived in Charleston the next day. At the entrance channel, a pilot boat warned us that we had to stay outside the channel as a Canadian nuclear submarine was entering Charleston at the same time. Interesting traffic as also a large container ship left Charleston about the same time. Called friend Al Straub and he met us for dinner on the boat. Refueled diesel and water and were surprised about the rip current going through that marina.

28. 9.00am. Departure in Charleston, heading for the St. Helens Sound and Morgan Island. The coast is very shallow and we had to go a long way offshore before entering the Sound. Challenged navigation into the Sound as the markers were quite far apart. Located a rescue operation of a fisherman that signaled help, but was in shallow water. Rescue boat did not see him for a long time, but eventually spotted him. Relayed to them the position by radio, but they did not hear us. However they got to him and towed him ashore. Anchoring at Morgan Island was another task. It was all marshland and the anchor did not find solid ground. We lifted the anchor and at that time I had no more propulsion with the engine. My folding prop did not open anymore.

29. So we drifted by the strong current into the river where my prop worked again. Dropped anchor in the river with high current. Changed direction 2 x over night to continue the next day up river. The tide is about 8 ft as water is pushed into this Sound.

30. Destination Beaufort SC. This time. Interestingly we were close to the ICW again and had to follow this canal to the marina in Beaufort. Signed up for 2 nights as Juergen, one of my crewmembers had to leave back home.

            7-1  Beaufort, SC. Interesting historical city with a full service marina. Had a courtesy car to go shopping. 8ft tide at the dock.                            

3. Departure to sea, but before we had to clear another 65ft bridge. Due to the high tide, we had to wait until 11.00am for the tide half way down in order to clear that bridge safely. Took a 360 degree circle before passing and we had good clearance. After exiting the Royal Sound we raised the sails and went to sea for about 10 NM. Heading was St. Augustine.

4. At sea. In the middle of several Thunderstorms but very little rain. Passed St. Augustine as we were late at night for entering the channel. We have seen many fireworks along the shore. Especially the finales with a lot of boom rockets flashing in the sky.

5. At sea. No wind. All under motor around Cape Canaveral. We could see the space shuttle scheduled to go up in a few days from a safety distance.

6. At sea. Heading South. Caught nice Spanish Mackerel of about 5 lbs. At night we see all the lights along the coast to West Palm Beach. The Gulf Stream is against us. We sail 6.5 KN through water and make 2.7 KN over ground.

7. 8.00am. We are at the entrance of Ft. Lauderdale. Have a reservation at Bahia Mar Marina, a fully-fledged marina with hotel and pool. Filled up with diesel and water and tied up Spring Bird at the dock until hurricane Dennis has made up his mind on where to go. Booked a rental car and drove back home. Will continue itinerary to Key West and Cape Coral once conditions permit.

12. SPRING BIRD is dodging 2 hurricanes Dennis and Emily.

    Dennis was right in our path as timing would have been perfect to meet him in Key West. We let him pass and returned to Ft. Lauderdale today. Prepared Spring Bird and left 2.00pm to meet the 17^th street bridge opening at 2.30 p.m. Sailed due South outside the reef encountering the Gulf Stream in various strengths. At 2.30 a.m. the following day we made over 6 KN through the water and only 3.7 KN over ground. It was time to start the engine to make some headway towards SE, first to race the new hurricane Emily and second the natural force of the Gulf Stream. We drop the anchor in Marathon.

13. Very little wind from the E. Today, we stayed inside the reef in the Hawk Channel and reached Key West at 3.00 p.m. Marinas charge top price of $ 3.00 per foot with no service on the dock. The town is filled with tourists. Had some Margaritas at Jimmy Buffets place, walked to the most southerly point of the USA. Hurricane Dennis did very little damage to the houses but the trees lost some branches.

14. Left Key West through the NW channel with 5-10 KN wind from the East. Ideal conditions for the first time on our trip to let Spring Bird perform at its best. We averaged between 7-8 KN for some hours until heavy thunderstorms came our way. Passed Marco Island and Naples during the night and arrived at the Sanibel bridge for the 8.00 a.m. opening. Continued to the Cape Coral Yacht Marina and docked Spring Bird at 9.15 a.m.

15. A long journey of 1623 NM (3006 km) came to an end. It was challenging and exciting to all the crew and the owner.

Creative Sailing Corp.

5008 SW 17^th Ave.

Cape Coral, FL 33914

Phone: 239-542-5138

e-mail:  mail@CreativeSailing.com